Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture

Sneakers are on show? More than a closet full—roughly 30 sneakers are on show with signed Adidas on loan from Run DMC, Dee Wells from Obsessive Sneaker Disorder and sneaker historian Bobbito Garcia A.K.A. Kool Bob Love (who DJed the opening party).

Sneakers have played an obvious connection between music and style, from the moment Adidas execs gave Run DMC a deal after seeing them play “My Adidas” in 1986. A museum show helps put it in context, outside of the music video and documentary footage.

When exactly was the rise of sneaker culture? Well, the show starts with its humble beginnings, showing the oldest running shoe in history—a pair of black leather Dutton and Thorowgood running shoes from 1865. It’s chronological history running from from the Bata sprinting shoes in the 1930s to the stuff worn on sidewalks today.

As the show’s title suggests, sneaker culture is on the up and up. Was it the obvious rise in the 1970s and 1980s with hip-hop culture? Or the more recent hype, like the custom-designed Mache kicks, with buzz from Kanye West and Kobe Bryant? It could be the stranger additions, like the computer-friendly Adidas Micropacer which had sensors to record running pace, distance, and calorie consumption (for real) back in 1984.

Whether it’s the cash grab, like the bestselling Nike Air Force sneakers, or the Nike Waffle Trainer, which was invented when the Nike founder poured rubber into his wife’s waffle-maker, let’s face it—sneakers will never go out of style. They’re much more practical than heels and besides which sneakers will keep reinventing themselves in different forms, from collaborations with musicians (take the Supra Skytop with Toronto rapper Knaan) to the more spaced out rubber footwear with fashion designers, like Karim Rashid.

Weird hybrid stuff is all over this exhibition but you can’t replace the classics. Those are here, too. Meanwhile, the art world partnerships include Damien Hirst and Converse teaming up for butterfly high tops, while the Tom Sachs and Nike camp produced a shiny gold space shoe.

The most interesting sneakers are the least likely. Here is a quick run through (literally) of the exhibition which runs until March 30.

Keds Champion, 1916
Before there was the low-cut version of Keds—where Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe helped flesh out casual sneaker culture—there was the very first lace-up, slip on athletic shoe, the Keds Champion. A women’s sneaker, it was the first to introduce the slang term “sneaker,” that is, a quiet rubber-soled shoe to quietly pitter-patter across floors and sneak up on your friends.

Converse Gripper, late 1940s-early 1950s
Don’t be mistaken—these high tops look like All Stars but they’re actually Grippers, a post-war sneaker from the 40s/50s. Advertised as made from the sturdy Army duck cloth, their heavy ribbed white toe guards were a hit on the court.

Adidas Superstar, 1974
The shell toe first hit the market in 1969 as the first low-cut leather basketball sneaker. In 1986, Run DMC invited Adidas execs to Madison Square Garden as they played “My Adidas.” As lore has it, the rappers got a fat contract, simultaneously developed a trademark for wearing the Superstars without laces. On show here are the Superstars which were released in 2011, the 25th anniversary of the rap. These ones are a precious pair is autographed by Run and DMC.

Reebok Freestyle, 1982
When aerobics and Jane Fonda workout videos arrived in the 70s, this sneaker became the ultimate shoe to help women tone their thunder thighs. The bubblegum pink pairs were the most popular and even today, this shoe still accounts for half of all Reebok sales. Although not as popular as it once was, the Freestyle saw its heyday in the 80s, when Cybill Shepherd wore a pair at the 85 Emmy Awards, as well as cameos by Punky Brewster. During a 1980 transit worker's strike in New York City, many working women walked to work in power suits, pantyhose and high top sneakers.

Nike Air Jordan I, 1985
One of the famous sneakers of all time, Air Jordans have gone through many renditions since the 80s. This shoe in particular, created for notorious number 23 Chicago Bulls player Michael Jordan, was probably the most troublesome as the NBA didn’t allow colorful sneakers to be worn (yes, red and black is colorful to the NBA, even when it’s the same color as the Bulls uniform). Apparently for every game during he wore the shoes, Jordan was fined $5,000. That edginess made his fans love him all the more.

Onitsuka Tiger Tai Chi LE retros, 2010
Initially brought into the spotlight in 78 by Bruce Lee, these are the same famed sneakers worn in the unfinished film, Game of Death. (His jumpsuit from the film recently landed at an auction). A similar image was brought back by Uma Thurman in Kill Bill, which led to the re-release of the sneaker.Christian Louboutin Roller-Boat, 2012
One of the more highend—albeit spiky and eccentric—sneakers around, this slip on shoe goes for over $1000. The shoe, which comes in gold among other colors, is a favorite of pop star Psy, basketball player Swaggy P, and South Korean rapper Poppin' Dragon.

Jimmy Choo Belgravia, 2012London-based designerJimmy Choo, famed for designing women’s shoes, brings a bit of bling to high tops with female silhouettes made from ornate paisley along the side of his sneakers. While his camouflage sneaker is more loved in the hip-hop community (rapper Meek Mill is no stranger for pushing it) these are far more music video. Jeremy Scott for Adidas Totem, 2013
Kansas-born fashion designer Jeremy Scott created this controversial Native American-inspired sneaker (and tracksuits) with decorative motifs that caused uproar to the Pacific Northwest Native American communities for its tackiness and continues to be under pressure. Last month, Scott was appointed creative director of Moschino.

Bata x Wilson x John Wooden, 1977
This rare retro sneaker was donated by hip-hop icon Bobbito Garcia (author of Where’d You Get Those? NYC’s Sneaker Culture: 1960-1987). An ode to the basketball coach the “Wizard of Westwood” John Wooden, the only person ever indicted in the Basketball Hall of Fame as a coach and a player, he’s been claimed the best-ever coach for winning ten NCAA national championships over the course of 12 years and a record of his team winning 88 consecutive games.

Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture runs until March 30, 2014 at the Bata Shoe Museum.

Photos courtesy of the Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, Canada.

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