In the shadow of the Aurora Borealis, warmed by geothermal energy, Icelandic greenhouses host the largest banana plantation in Europe.
Reykjavik and the few other urbanized areas are pockets of modernity in the midst of this overwhelming sensation of being fully dominated by nature. She, so prosperous and fickle, can make you fall in love with her in just a few hours. Iceland empties your wallet, but it gives you back a priceless sense of gratitude, a cosmic hug with retro hippie vibes that you didn’t think you could possibly feel.Iceland empties your wallet, but it gives you back a priceless sense of gratitude.
Kæstur hákarl: Fermented shark that “bites its own tail”
The truth is that fermented shark smells like the part of the sidewalk that's not illuminated by streetlights—that is to say, the part that smells like piss.
Whale meat
Driving the length of Route 1 takes you around the entire perimeter of Iceland. In the week I spent driving it, I found it hard to find a restaurant serving more than salmon, radishes, and survival food. Eventually, after driving around the whole island and arriving in Reykjavik, we landed at Ostabúòin, one of Iceland's most visited and acclaimed restaurants, right in the center of the city.After a week of the same rotating menu, this restaurant seemed a mirage, like I’d finally landed on a soft pillow stuffed with all the good and just things about civilization.On the tasting menu, there’s also a dish based around minor whale meat.Hordes of tourists galvanized from whale watching, and restaurants where they serve whale meat on the menu.
I digested it, but something in my stomach continued to make me feel queasy. In the days that followed, I discovered that the issue of whale fishing in Iceland has been an open wound for years. It’s a practice related to the country’s cultural heritage, yes, but it’s one that—in the context of 2018—doesn’t make a lot of sense, even if we believe the species isn’t at risk of imminent extinction and if the fishing quotas are respected. Whales aren’t sleeping soundly as it is, especially when you consider the abysmal end they’re subjected to (one that I wouldn’t wish on the talking ones at the cinema).READ MORE: Eating Seal Meat Is a Vital Part of Life in My Community