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Streetwear Spotlight: Walé Adeyemi

On the fourth day of our British streetwear special, we speak with Walé, whose threads have graced the bodies of Beyoncé, Rihanna, Ellie Goulding, and Joe Bada$$.

Whoever told you that the streetwear industry was dying sold you a lie from hell. The Hypebeast-reading style corner was rocked only six months ago, when news surfaced that Trapstar was to become the first apparel line on Jay-Z's Roc Nation. Now, chances of the west London-based brand breaking into the global fashion industry are higher than they ever were before. Which begs the obvious question: whose garms will be next to dominate out here in these streets? Every day this week Noisey's Joseph "JP" Patterson will introduce us to one more player in the British streetwear game.

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Walé Adeyemi

Start date: 1995

Owner: Walé Adeyemi‏

Walé Adeyemi‏ on the design aesthetic:
Everything is created in-house; we have designers, stylists, photographers, and general heat-makers. We work as a collective and produce clothes in Asia and the UK. The custom pieces are all made in the UK, though. And sampling, we have our own in-house sample machinist. The design process starts from inspirations; it could range from a new music artist who’s about to emerge or a trip to down to an art gallery. However, most of the inspiration comes from trends on the street. From there, it goes to the sketch pad and then sampling on the sewing machine. Lots of designs don’t make it through to production, but we archive everything and redevelop styles and best-sellers. We’re fortunate enough to be able to work quickly to the market and react accordingly.

I originally started the label when I was still studying. I started selling to record stores around town and, from there, I got my first market store in Camden. In those days, I was mainly selling to Japan; they would visit the stall each week with big suitcases and buy the majority of my products and take them back to Japan. This is where I developed most of my clientele. Around this period, drum & bass music was massive, and my stall was opposite to a legendary D&B stand. All of the DJs would pass through, pick up some clothes, and then the records. It was a great time.

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Beyoncé and Vashtie in Walé. Ellie Goulding and Joey Bada$$

What or who has been the biggest inspiration for your work?
London is an ever-changing city, and has always inspired me with its diversity and culture. Having been fortunate enough to travel with my work has also been a big inspiration for me. Cultural diversity is something I feel I had a unique experience with, especially with living in London, and meeting people from around the globe. And also learning from their culture heritage. In addition, music has played a big part in my work. The relationship between music and fashion is the perfect marriage.

How does your label compare to other British streetwear labels?
In essence, we all represent the same thing, but all brands have their own individual DNA. B-side by Wale is all about different influences from punk to skate to hip-hop culture. Mixing all these elements up is what B-side by Wale has always been about, and will continue to be.

Who have been some of your biggest supporters?
Just to name a few: Beyoncé, Rihanna, Ellie Goulding, Jourdan Dunn, Bruno Mars, Tinie Tempah, Joey Bada$$. We’re always in support of emerging talent and anyone who is a master of their craft. My thing is to always go with the underdog. I’ve always felt my passion is to work with undiscovered talents and the unsigned, and not just work with individuals who are already in the spotlight.

What's the future of the Walé Adeyemi‏ brand?
Well, next year will be our 20-year anniversary, so there is a lot to celebrate. And, with this, there will be many surprises and revisits of the past. Stay tuned for that!

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Joseph is on Twitter! Follow him - @Jpizzledizzle

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