Most Wanted: Everything Sarah Angold's Ever Designed

We need to talk about Sarah Angold. Her jewelry is sci-fi chic, made of bright shades of geometric acrylic and bold gold hardware. It’s futuristically cool, like the shed exoskeleton of an alien who drinks neon radiation for breakfast. Having cut her teeth designing concept cars in Japan and working with Britain’s most acclaimed out-of-the-box designer, Hussein Chalayan (remember Gaga’s 2009 bubble dress? Her effort was a total knockoff off his 2007 creation), Angold’s eponymous line has since been spotted on a range of singers including Alicia Keys and Katy B. Over the summer, the 30-year-old’s angular, Art Deco-inspired vision was also available via a Freedom for Topshop diffusion line.

While she’s still best known for the sculptural statement pieces, Angold has her sights set on becoming a force in the design world beyond accessories, and beyond sleek lighting fixtures too. Her five-year plan is to be seen as a go-to cross-disciplinary collaborator.

“At the moment we have collaborations with a prominent architect and an aviation company in the pipeline,” explains Sarah. “It’s important to me that we continue to make forays into new areas of design.”

We talked to Angold about Transformers, the music she listens to when she designs, and how a sense of ballsy determination is a requisite for getting what you want. How did you move from textiles to designing concept cars to creating jewelry? And how was your time in Japan instrumental to you development as a designer?
I’ve always felt that genuine creativity can be applied to any discipline and as I take on new challenges my design process doesn’t change that much. I take an inspiration or theme and explore it in every weird and wonderful way possible. Then I use the shapes, colors and structures to inform my designs. For every area of design I have to meet pragmatic requirements, whether that’s fire retardency in car fabrics, the comfortable weight of a necklace or electrical safety in lighting. The most innovative results come when you’re out of your comfort zone and that’s how I prefer to work.

I love that your pieces are bold and have a sort of sci-fi, mega-modern aesthetic, and weirdly some of it reminds me of dinosaurs. Can you tell me where you pull your inspiration for specific pieces from? It is true that you were inspired by Transformers?
Materials, textures, architecture and geometry are a constant inspiration. Our last collection was based around a 16th century mathematician and the graduating shapes his equations and algorithms created. I do pride myself on unusual sources of inspiration, and yes I am the weirdo in the corner of the cinema with a sketchpad at Transformer movies.

How did you end up working with acrylic?
I started my career as a textile designer for designer runway shows like Calvin Klein, building multi-layered fabrics that had acrylic inlaid into them. They got more and more structured and in the end the acrylic as all that was left! What do you like about it?
I’m like a magpie; anything shiny!

What was it about Hussein Chalayan and his work that made you so determined to work for him?
Hussein Chalayan fuses technology and fashion seamlessly. His moving pieces are beautiful, integral, and surreal: you don’t get the feeling that the mechanics are just there for a good story.

How did your time working with him affect your work?
It taught me sheer determination. I decided when I graduated from my BA that he was the one designer I MUST work for. After two months of not being able to get a meeting, I went to his studios and just waited in reception until an assistant took pity and agreed to give me two minutes. I got my portfolio out on the floor in the middle of the entrance; everyone had to climb over to get through the door. Two hours later Hussein and I shook hands on our first collaboration. Hussein and I share a passionate for introducing new materials and technologies into fashion, we both love to break the rules. His drive to realize his visions is uncompromising and inspirational.

Kat Graham in Sarah Angold. Alicia Keys and Cheryl Cole and Katy B have worn your pieces. Have there been any other musicians who have worn your stuff?
I love seeing my pieces on the red carpet, that's when they really come alive. Recently actress and singer Kat Graham wore our Capitra necklace to Elle's 20th annual women in Hollywood ceremony. Do you listen to music when you design?
I'm currently driving the studio crazy with a recently downloaded 90s floor fillers album. Guilty pleasure. Sarah Angold for Freedom at Topshop.

Earlier this year you put out a capsule collection for Topshop. Is it important to you to sometimes make your work more accessible in terms of a lower price point? Can you see yourself doing this again or was it a one-off?
When Freedom for Topshop approached me about the collaboration they were looking for a slice of our signature sci-fi chic style at a price point within reach of their high street customers. I was given some ballpark costs to hit and worked closely with Freedom’s team to understand what was most important to their shoppers. I think that working within these constraints led to a more creative solution rather than less. It is important to me that our designs reach the widest audience possible, so another diffusion collection is definitely on the cards!

The Topshop collection has an Art Deco lean to it. What is it about this era that appeals to you?
I rarely start out intending a collection to have a deco feel, but even if I’m taking inspiration from industrial cranes, the 1920s somehow seem to creep in! Certainly that era’s geometry has a simplicity and elegance that resonates with me.

David Koma and Sarah Angold, SS12 LFW.

Let's talk a bit about the David Koma collaboration…
I take on a different collaboration every season and the “3D embroidery” we created for David Koma is certainly one of my favorites. Feminine yet futuristic, Koma’s tribal patterns fused perfectly with our structural hand sewn detail.

How would you describe the Sarah Angold woman?
Our customers span all ages, but are united by a common outlook. They’re strong and confident, know their own minds and seek jewelry to accentuate and compliment their spirit, not mask or distract from it. They, like the jewelry they wear, are unmissable.

What are you most proud of in your career thus far? Congrats on the Sephora campaign—looks great!
Thank you! That’s a tough one; there have been unforgettable moments at every milestone. Most recently I was delighted to be ranked in the Evening Standard’s Power 1000 as one of the London’s 1000 most influential figures. World domination can’t be far off!

Kim is currently saving up for the Iacio necklace, which may take some time, but she's obsessed and on Twitter - @theKTB.